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La Sportiva Solution - Women's Review

These shoes are a tried and true steep climbing masterpiece
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La Sportiva Solution - Women's Review
Credit: La Sportiva
Price:  $199 List
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Manufacturer:   La Sportiva
By Jane Jackson ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  May 29, 2018
76
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#6 of 20
  • Comfort - 20% 8.0
  • Smearing - 20% 9.0
  • Edging - 20% 6.0
  • Pulling - 20% 8.0
  • Cracks - 20% 7.0

Our Verdict

The La Sportiva Solution has been a longstanding favorite for sport climbers and boulderers alike. There are many things we loved about the women's specific model. For one, it is not pink, which we appreciate, and has an updated Velcro tap that reminds us of Tron. Besides the flashy looks, the new Solution has the same aggressive shape that we've always loved. The shoes combine comfort with performance, especially on steep terrain. Best for pockets, small footholds and toeing in on steep terrain, these are bouldering and sport climbing machines. By their overall appearance (and price tag!) you can tell these shoes are designed for a specific use. Keep that in mind if you are looking for a one-shoe-quiver model, as the Solution is a bit too specific for that. It will, however, give you the extra oomph to level up on your next sport climbing trip.
REASONS TO BUY
Good for steep climbing
Break in well
Conforms to foot shape
Comfortable
Aggressive shape
REASONS TO AVOID
Expensive
Lacks versatility

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Bottom Line For steep terrain where an aggressive shape and an asymmetrical toe box are your friend, go for the SolutionA do-it-all shoe that is a new fan favorite for difficult cracks and multi-pitch climbingThese high-performance slippers work well for almost all types of climbing, from cracks to steep sport climbs to boulderingAn ideal shoe for a beginner climber: soft, comfortable, and great for moderate terrainA shoe that is great for all-day wear and is easy to take on and off
Rating Categories La Sportiva Solutio... La Sportiva Katana... La Sportiva Skwama... Five Ten Kirigami -... La Sportiva Tarantu...
Comfort (20%)
8.0
7.0
8.0
9.0
9.0
Smearing (20%)
9.0
8.0
9.0
7.0
4.0
Edging (20%)
6.0
9.0
7.0
4.0
6.0
Pulling (20%)
8.0
9.0
9.0
4.0
4.0
Cracks (20%)
7.0
9.0
8.0
7.0
6.0
Specs La Sportiva Solutio... La Sportiva Katana... La Sportiva Skwama... Five Ten Kirigami -... La Sportiva Tarantu...
Style Velcro Lace Velcro Velcro Lace
Weight (Per Pair, size 37) 1.06 lb 1.09 lb 0.95 lb 0.99 lb 0.97 lb
Upper Leather/Lorica Microfiber/leather Leather/microfiber Synthetic Leather/microfiber
Lining HF (heel and toe box only) Full-length LaspoFlex with P3 system Unlined Synthetic Unlined
Sole Rubber Vibram XS Grip2 Vibram XS Edge Vibram XS Grip2 Stealth C4 Frixion RS
Width Options Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular
Fit Asymmetrical Asymmetrical Asymmetrical Low Asymmetry Low Asymmetry

Our Analysis and Test Results

The Solution is yet another Italian masterpiece from La Sportiva. This aggressively downturned shoe is designed for steep sport climbing and bouldering, but somehow still remains comfortable.

Performance Comparison


la sportiva solution for women - testing out the solutions on the super steep leaning tower in...
Testing out the Solutions on the super steep Leaning Tower in Yosemite Valley.
Credit: Jane Jackson

Comfort


How can a shoe this dramatically downturned be comfortable? We're mystified, we'll admit it. The toes are curled into the front of the shoe, positioned for power, but somehow don't feel cramped. The rest of the shoe wraps the foot and cradles the arch snugly.

It should be noted that this model, much like other aggressively shaped shoes out there, take some time to break in. At first, their shape can feel very weird on an unconditioned foot, but over time the shoe will mold to your unique foot shape. The updated women's model has the same women's specific PD 75 last, allowing it to fit narrower feet better than the men's model.

la sportiva solution for women - the new vs. the old la sportiva solution. we tested these pairs side...
The new vs. the old La Sportiva Solution. We tested these pairs side by side to make sure we could note all the differences and similarities between these two models.
Credit: Eric Bissell

The one complaint we have about the Solution: some testers have reported foot problems after wearing it on an almost daily basis. One woman compared the Solutions to barefoot shoes, noting that they are so soft and so extremely downturned that you need to let your feet become accustomed to them before wearing them all the time. One way to do this is to have a separate (maybe cheaper!) pair for your warm-ups, and then you can bust out this weapon for the projects. We have also had many testers use and love these shoes with no problems whatsoever, but more than one woman has reported back that they had issues with them after a while, so be aware until you learn how they work and feel for you.

Sensitivity


Initially, we did not expect a shoe this aggressive to be so sensitive. The updated Solution fits very similarly to the old model, but we found that the toe is even more pointed, making it difficult to get our big toes all the way to the front of the shoe. This took away from the overall sensitivity of the shoe for us, but we found it to become less of an issue over time as the shoes broke in.

la sportiva solution for women - testing the heel hooking capabilities of the new solution.
Testing the heel hooking capabilities of the new Solution.
Credit: Eric Bissell

The sole of the Solution also feels soft rather than stiff, and it molds and conforms to the foot as well as to the wall, allowing for maximum sensation.

Edging


Compared to our two favorite edging shoes, the Solutions fall a little behind - but not by much. The Solutions lacked the stiff midsole to keep us standing on minuscule footholds, but the shape of the toe and the downturn makes any hold magically turn into a decent foothold. The sole of these shoes is coated with 4 mm of Vibram XS Grip rubber, which is sticky and confidence-inspiring on small features. The midsole is thinner than the Miura, with 0.9 mm of Laspoflex (the Miura has 1.1 mm), and it is only in the toe, not throughout the length of the shoe. Laspoflex is an ultra-thin synthetic fiber-laminate that adds rigidity to the shoe. The Solution only has the laminate in the front of the shoe, which allows it to mold, bend, and squish.

la sportiva solution for women - the solutions have a very pointy toe, which works well on steep...
The Solutions have a very pointy toe, which works well on steep terrain, but less so on the vertical.
Credit: Eric Bissell

Crack Climbing


These downturned shoes are not meant for crack climbing. The fit and shape are far too aggressive to feel comfortable jamming into cracks, though the rubber on the top of the toe box is suitable for toe hooks or the occasional foot jam that may be encountered on a boulder problem. Perhaps if they are sized large, they would work ok in cracks, but for the most part, these shoes are not designed for jamming. If you are looking for a shoe to wear on multi-pitch routes and for crack climbs, look for a shoe with a flatter shape and a stiffer midsole.

Pockets


This is the most dramatically downturned shoe in our review and is designed for steep pockets, edges, and technical terrain. It toes into pockets with ease and helps hold you into overhanging faces.

la sportiva solution for women - hidden amongst the trees are a brand new pair of solutions!
Hidden amongst the trees are a brand new pair of Solutions!
Credit: Eric Bissell

When the terrain gets past vertical, these are the shoes you want on your feet.

Ease of Use


The lock harness on the Solution is not only incredibly quick and easy to fasten, but it also allows for customizable tightness that keeps the shoe fitting and performing well.

la sportiva solution for women - hard to get on at first, the solutions break in to be a comfortable...
Hard to get on at first, the Solutions break in to be a comfortable pair of shoes.
Credit: Eric Bissell

The tabs on the heel make for easy clipping to your harness and are great pull loops for putting on these (probably tight) shoes. It should be noted that the Solutions are pretty hard to get on at first since they take some time to stretch out. This detracts from their ease of use just a little bit. The new Solution also has an improved locking harness system and a fast lacing system that is more durable and, in our opinion, looks better (because style matters too).

Value


The Solution is one of the most expensive climbing shoes in our review. Their price tag is significant, and for most people will require some thought before purchasing. But, just like we mentioned with the Miura, if you think regarding “cents per send,” these shoes could be a good value. Even if you have to spend a lot of money on climbing shoes at the outset, if they help you climb better, then you only really spend your spare change for every climb where you succeed. Is it worth a few cents to put some hard pitches down? We think so.

la sportiva solution for women - toeing in with the solution. the downturn shape helps your foot grab...
Toeing in with the Solution. The downturn shape helps your foot grab small holds.
Credit: Eric Bissell

Conclusion


The La Sportiva Solutions fit and climb like no other. They manage to be amazingly comfortable and dramatically aggressive. The Solutions position your foot for powerful edging, pulling, and smearing, and can help bring your climbing to the next level. The only real downside is that it's specialized for specific terrain, and it is not an all-around shoe to cross over to a variety of styles of climbing. If you love the steep stuff, then you will want to try the Solution.

Jane Jackson